Eldorado Canyon: orientation

e2 The keys were left in the van so we helped ourselves and spent a nice day far away from the half-way house. Climber X couldnt stop going on and on about Eldorado Canyon and Uber Classic Americano Climbing!!



What fortune had found me here with my good friend who had spent many a youthful day climbing about the sheer golden walls and towering sandstone cliffs? I was about to have a mind blowing experience.

e9As I laced up i only had one thought ‘This is gonna be RAD!!’  I had been to Eldo once before as part of my AMGA training for a multi pitch seminar, but thats another experience entirely.

e3 The Unique features of the crag and the feel of the conglomerate sandstone walls made for great climbing. We spoke of Layton Kor who had pioneered many of the first routes in 60′s. I dont even recall the names of all the routes we climbed that day as the high walls were so stark and in ones face. e4 e5e6WOW! what a nice pitch. Its hard to elaborate beyond what one can imagine just seeing the photographs and the terrian and we were on the moderate stuff, 5.7-5.8 range. Another full pich followed this one as routes worked their way up all sides of the somewhat intimidating cliffs that sometimes ended in pointed fins and  menacing pinnacles.

e7 My Guide led me to less travelled routes as the crowds and tourist stayed on the classics: Calypso, Ruper, Red Garden Wall and of course the worn smooth super classic Bastille Crack. Every view was spectacular!!


We would climb a couple pitches do some down climbing to a rappel station and hit some stairs cut into the gullys between the various towers. Than we would repeat. Consciousness and my being parted ways and I did some of the best rock climbing of my days so far passed. 






Climber X was getting down to…




It ended with such a fine pitch where I pulled a roof on an ancient piton to a diagonal corner that led to a funky wall with shallow scoops for holds and totally run out. I was in Orbit!! e15



Until next time Eldo!!  The memories I’ve sustained keep me weightless.


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